Crocheting around

So glad you could stop by. I  have alot of crafts and things posted here so please look around before going to the New Site.
My New Crafts blog is here, at Tinksmeadow.

Elegant Hat

Pattern came from HERE

The pattern calls for Simply Soft yarn which I have and love , but you could make it just as well in another light weight worsted yarn of your choice. It's a real cute pattern , you could even add a different color band or even flowers , it's all up to you.Enjoy



FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Hat measures approximately 21"/53.5cm circumference (at band)

MATERIALS

Caron International's Simply Soft

(100% acrylic; 6 oz/170 g, 315 yds/288 m skein): 4 oz

Shown in: #9742 Grey Heather

One size US G-6 (4mm) crochet hook, or size to obtain gauge.

Stitch marker (or small piece of contrasting yarn)

Yarn needle

GAUGE

In single crochet worked in the round, 15 sts and 14 rows = 4"/10cm

STITCHES USED

Chain (ch), single crochet (sc), slip stitch (sl st)

SPECIAL TERM

rev sc (reverse single crochet) Work single crochet in opposite direction by inserting hook in

 next stitch (to the right if right-handed, and to the left if left-handed), yarn over and draw up a

 loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook.

NOTES

1. Hat is worked in continuous rounds, with RS facing throughout. Do not turn and do not join

 at the end of rounds, unless otherwise instructed. Place a marker to indicate the end of the

 round and move the marker up as work progresses.

2. Increases are staggered, to produce a rounder, less hexagonal shape.

3. To reduce finishing time, weave in ends as work progresses.

HAT

Ch 2.

Round 1 (RS): Work 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook; do not join and do not turn—4 sc.

Round 2: Work 2 sc in each sc around—8 sc.

Round 3: Work 2 sc in each sc around—16 sc.

Round 4: [Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] 8 times—24 sc.

Round 5: [Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 8 times—32 sc.

Round 6: Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 3 times, sc in next 6 sc—36 sc.

Round 7: Sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 3 times, sc in next 4 sc—40 sc.

Round 8: Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 7 times, sc in last 3 sc—48 sc.

Round 9: Sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 3 times, sc in next 6 sc—52 sc.

Round 10: Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 3 times, sc in next 10 sc—56 sc.

Round 11: Sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 7 times, sc in next 2 sc—64 sc.

Round 12: Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 7 times, sc in next 6 sc—72 sc.

Round 13: Sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 7 times, sc in next 3 sc—80 sc.

Rounds 14–25: Sc in each sc around.

Sl st in next st.

Band Base

Note: The band base rounds are joined with sl st at the end of each round.

Rounds 26–28: Ch 1, working in back loops only, sc in each sc around; join with sl st in first sc.

Round 29: Ch 1, sc in each sc around; join with sl st in first sc.

Brim

Note: Resume working in continuous rounds. Do not join at the end of rounds.

Round 30: Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 7 times, sc in next 7 sc—88 sc.

Round 31: Sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 7 times, sc in next 5 sc—96 sc.

Rounds 32 and 33: Sc in each sc around.

Sl st in next st. Fasten off.

BAND

With RS facing, join yarn with sl st in free front loop of any sc in Round 25, ch 1, rev sc in each free front loop around; join with sl st in first sc. Repeat this process, working rev sc in free front loops of Rounds 26 and 27.

BOW

Ch 4.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch across, turn—3 sc.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in last sc, turn—4 sc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc, sc in last sc, turn—6 sc.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in first sc, [sk next sc, sc in next sc] twice, sc in last sc, turn—4 sc.

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in first sc, sk next sc, sc in next 2 sc, turn—3 sc.

Row 7: Ch 1, insert hook in first sc and draw up a loop (2 loops on hook), sk next sc, insert hook in last sc and draw up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through all loops on hook.

Fasten off.

With RS facing, and working across opposite side of foundation ch, join yarn with sl st in first ch, ch 1, sc in each ch across—3 sc.

Repeat Rows 2–7 for other end of bow. Fasten off.

Bow Center

Ch 6; join with sl st in first ch to form a ring, taking care not to twist ch.

Round 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around; join with sl st in first sc, do not turn—6 sc.

Round 2:  Ch 1, sc in each sc around; join with sl st in first sc.

Fasten off. 

FINISHING

Insert bow into bow center. Sew bow to side of band, as shown in photograph. Using yarn needle, weave in all ends.

Baroque Tabard
Tunic

This is so cute but I think I can make the tunic in green
 velvet and crochet the rest. I'm going to try it anyway,
 It is so Old World.
I just love it.

Pattern can be found HERE

OR

SIZESSmall (Medium, Large, X-Large, XX-Large, XXX-Large)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS:
Bust 36 1/2 (40, 45, 49, 52, 62)"/92.5 (101.5, 114.5, 124.5, 132, 157.5) cm
Length 26 1/2 (27, 28, 29, 29 1/2, 29 1/2)"/67.5 (68.5, 71, 73.5, 75, 75) cm

MATERIALS
Caron International's Simply Soft Shadows (100% acrylic; 3 oz/85g, 150 yds/137m ball): 5 (5, 6, 8, 9, 9) balls A.
Caron International's Simply Soft Heather (100% Acrylic; 5 oz/141.8 g, 250 yds/228 m skein): 2 (2, 2, 3, 4, 4) skeins B
Caron International's Simply Soft (100% acrylic; 6 oz/170 g, 315 yds/288 m skein): 1 skein C all sizes.
Shown in: #0006 Dark Moss (A), #9503 Woodland Heather (B), #9703 Bone (C).
One each size US H-8 (5mm) and US I-9 (5.5mm) crochet hooks, or size to obtain gauge.
Stitch markers
Yarn needle

GAUGE
In sleeve pattern, using US H-8 (5mm) hook, one (12 st) repeat and 5 rounds = 3 1/2"/9cm.
In half double crochet, using US I-9 (5.5mm) hook, 12 sts and 9 rows = 4"/10cm.

STITCHES USED
Chain (ch), half double crochet (hdc), double crochet (dc), reverse single crochet (rev sc), single crochet (sc), slip stitch (slip st), treble (tr)

SPECIAL TERMS
Fhdc: Foundation half double crochet (This technique creates a foundation chain and a row of half double crochet stitches in one) –
Step 1:Place a slip knot on hook, ch 3, yarn over, insert hook in 3rd ch from hook and draw up a loop; yarn over and draw through one loop on hook (the "chain"); yarn over and draw through all loops on hook (the "half double crochet").
Step 2:The following stitch is worked under the forward 2 loops of the the "chain". Yarn over, insert hook into the face of the "chain" and under the nub at the back of the "chain", draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through one loop on hook (the "chain"), yarn over and draw through all loops on hook (the "half double crochet"). Repeat for the length of foundation.
dc2tog: Double crochet 2 together – Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through two loops on hook (two loops on hook); yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through two loops on hook (three loops on hook), yarn over and draw through all three loops on hook.
hdc2tog: Half double crochet 2 together – Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, (three loops on hook); yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (five loops on hook), yarn over and draw through all five loops on hook.
picot:Ch 4, sc in dc just made.
shell: Dc in next st, picot, [dc in same st, picot] 4 times,

NOTES
1. Tabard is worked side-to-side with minimal shaping (shoulder slope).
2. Sleeves are worked in the round.
3. The lace empire waistband and tie-belt are worked in one piece. The waistband defines the waist without waist shaping.
4. Sleeves and waistband are crocheted-on with a decorative seam.
5. Back is worked separately from front, and then seamed at the shoulders, to show off the unique color-changing "shadows" of the yarn. The color changes will look the same for the plus-sizes because of the side-to-side construction.

HELPFUL
1. When working sleeves, work only the number of rounds needed to customize the length of the sleeves.
2. These instructions occasionally call for working in the third horizontal loop found on the back of each hdc. To locate this loop, look at the top of the hdc, you will see the usual front loop and back loop. Just below the back loop (on the back side of the hdc) there is yet another loop. This is the third horizontal loop.

FRONT BODICE
Note: There is no RS or WS until bodice is edged.
With A and larger hook, leaving a long tail for sewing shoulders, work 35 (36, 37, 38, 39, 38) Fhdc, turn.
Rows 1–4: Ch 2, hdc in each st across, turn—35 (36, 37, 38, 39, 38) hdc.
Shape First Shoulder
Row 5: Ch 2, hdc in each st to last st, 2 hdc in last st, turn—36 (37, 38, 39, 40, 39) hdc.
Rows 6–8: Ch 2, hdc in each st across, turn.
Repeat Rows 5–8 0 (0, 0, 0, 1, 2) more times—36 (37, 38, 39, 41, 41) hdc.
Rows 9 (9, 9, 9, 13, 17)–10 (10, 12, 14, 16, 20): Repeat Rows 5 and 6 1 (1, 2, 3, 2, 2) times—37 (38, 40, 42, 43, 43) hdc.
Shape Neck
Row 11 (11, 13, 15, 17, 21): Ch 2, hdc in next 16 (16, 17, 18, 19, 19) sts; leave remaining sts unworked (for neck), turn.
Rows 12 (12, 14, 16, 18, 22)–27 (31, 35, 37, 39, 43): Ch 2, hdc in each st across, turn.
Note: Work first 21 (22, 23, 24, 24, 24) ch of next row loosely enough that it stretches to the same length as the unworked sts of Row 11 (11, 13, 15, 17, 21). The chains will look too loose until the neckline is edged.
Row 28 (32, 36, 38, 40, 44): Ch 23 (24, 25, 26, 26, 26), hdc in third ch from hook and in each remaining ch and hdc across, turn—37 (38, 40, 42, 43, 43) hdc.
Shape Second Shoulder
Row 29 (33, 37, 39, 41, 45): Ch 2, hdc in each st across, turn.
Row 30 (34, 38, 40, 42, 46): Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc in each st across, turn—36 (37, 39, 41, 42, 42) hdc.
Repeat last 2 rows 0 (0, 1, 2, 1, 1) more time(s)—36 (37, 38, 39, 41, 41) hdc
Row 31 (35, 41, 45, 45, 49)–33 (37, 43, 47, 47, 51): Ch 2, hdc in each st across, turn
Row 34 (38, 44, 48, 48, 52): Repeat Row 30 (34, 38, 40, 42, 46)—35 (36, 37, 38, 40, 40) hdc.
Row 35 (39, 45, 49, 49, 53)–37 (41, 47, 51, 51, 55): Ch 2, hdc in each st across, turn.
Sizes XX-Large (XXX-Large) only:
Rows 52 (56)–55 (63) Repeat last 4 rows 1 (2) more times—39 (38) hdc.
All sizes:
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing shoulders.

FRONT PEPLUM
With A and larger hook, work 35 (36, 37, 38, 38, 38) Fhdc, turn.
Rows 1 (RS)–37 (41, 47, 51, 55, 63): Ch 2, hdc in each st across, turn—35 (36, 37, 38, 38, 38) hdc.
Edging (right hand side)
Row 1 (WS): Ch 2, [2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts] 3 times, hdc in each remaining st across, do not turn—38 (39, 40, 41, 41, 41) hdc. Note: This row ends at top right corner of peplum.
Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, rev sc across working the rev sc in the third horizontal loop found on the back of each hdc to create a raised ridge on the RS of the garment; do not turn.
Row 3 (WS): Working in sts of Row 1, ch 2, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in each remaining ch across, do not turn—40 (41, 42, 43, 43, 43) hdc.
Row 4 (WS): Repeat Row 2.
Size XX-Large only:
Row 5: Working in sts of Row 3, ch 2, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in each remaining ch across, do not turn—45 hdc.
Row 6: Repeat Row 2.
All sizes:
Fasten off.
Edging (left hand side)
With WS facing, join A with slip st in base of last foundation st (top left corner of peplum).
Row 1 (WS): Working along opposite side of foundation row, ch 2, hdc in each st to last 10 sts, [2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts] 3 times, 2 hdc in last st, do not turn—38 (39, 40, 41, 41, 41) hdc.
Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, rev sc across working the rev sc in the third horizontal loop found on the back of each hdc to create a raised ridge on the RS of the garment; do not turn.
Row 3 (WS): Working in sts of Row 1, ch 2, hdc in each st to last 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in last st, do not turn—40 (41, 42, 43, 43, 43) hdc.
Row 4 (WS): Repeat Row 2.
Size XX-Large only:
Row 5: Working in sts of Row 3, ch 2, hdc in each st to last 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in last st, do not turn—45 hdc.
Row 6: Repeat Row 2.
All sizes:
Do not fasten off.
Row 7 (RS): Turn, pivot to work along edge (top of peplum), ch 2, hdc in end of each row across. Fasten off.

BACK
With A and larger hook, work 78 (80, 82, 84, 85, 84) Fhdc, turn.
Rows 1–10 (10, 12, 14, 16, 20): Work Rows 1–10 (10, 12, 14, 16, 20) of front bodice—80 (82, 85, 88, 89, 89) hdc.
Shape Neck
Row 11 (11, 13, 15, 17, 21): Ch 2, hdc in next 77 (79, 81, 84, 85, 85) sts; leave remaining sts unworked, turn.
Rows 12 (12, 14, 16, 18, 22)–27 (31, 35, 37, 39, 43): Ch 2, hdc in each st across, turn.
Note: Work first 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4) ch of next row loosely enough that it stretches to the same length as the unworked sts of Row 11 (11, 13, 15, 17, 21). The chains will look too loose until the neckline is edged.
Row 28 (32, 36, 38, 40, 44): Ch 5 (5, 6, 6, 6, 6), hdc in third ch from hook and in each remaining ch across, hdc in each hdc across, turn—80 (82, 85, 88, 89, 89) hdc.
Work Rows 29 (33, 37, 39, 41, 45)–37 (41, 47, 51, 55, 63) of front bodice.

SLEEVE (make 2)
Beginning at top of sleeve, with smaller hook and B, chain 50 (52, 60, 72, 74, 74); taking care not to twist sts, join with slip st in first ch to form a ring.
Round 1 (WS): Ch 8 (counts as dc, ch 5), skip next 3 ch, *sc in next ch, ch 5, skip next 3 ch; repeat from * to last 2 (4, 0, 0, 2, 2) ch, [dc in next ch, ch 1, skip next ch] 1 (2, 0, 0, 1, 1) time(s); join with slip st in 3rd ch of beginning ch, do not turn—12 (12, 15, 18, 18, 18) ch-5 spaces, and 1 (2, 0, 0, 1, 1) ch-1 spaces.
Round 2 (WS): Ch 5, sc in first ch-5 space, *8 dc in next ch-5 space (shell made), sc in next ch-5 space, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 space; repeat from * to last 2 ch-5 spaces, shell in next ch-5 space, sc in next ch-5 space, ch 2, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 1 (2, 0, 0, 1, 1) time(s); join with slip st in 3rd ch of beginning ch, turn—4 (4, 5, 6, 6, 6) shells.
Round 3 (RS): Ch 1, sc in same st as join, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space] 1 (2, 0, 0, 1, 1) time(s), skip next dc, [dc in next dc; ch 4, sc in dc just made (picot made)] 8 times, *sc in next ch-5 space, [dc in next dc, picot] 8 times; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc, turn.
Round 4: Ch 8, skip first 2 picots, sc in next picot, [ch 5, skip next 2 picots, sc in next picot, ch 5, dc in next sc, ch 5, skip next 2 picots, sc in next picot] 3 (3, 4, 5, 5, 5) times; ch 5, skip next 2 picots, sc in next picot, ch 5, [dc in next sc, ch 1] 1 (2, 0, 0, 1, 1) time(s); join with slip st in 3rd ch of turning ch, do not turn.
Repeat Rows 2–4 until sleeve measures approximately 17 1/2"/44.5 cm from beginning.
Last 2 Rounds: Repeat Rounds 2 and 3. Fasten off.
Top Trim
With RS facing and smaller hook, join B with slip st in join on opposite side of foundation ch.
Round 1: Working along opposite side of foundation ch, ch 1, work 4 sc in each ch-3 space and 3 sc in each ch-1 space around; join with slip st in first sc—51 (54, 60, 72, 75, 75) sc. Fasten off.

WAISTBAND & TIE BELT
With smaller hook and B, ch 307 (351, 395, 461, 549, 593).
Row 1 (RS): Sc in second ch from hook, skip next 3 ch; dc in next ch, picot, [dc in same ch, picot] 4 times (shell made); skip next 3 ch, sc in next ch, *ch 5, skip next 2 ch, sc in next ch, skip next 3 ch, shell in next ch, skip next 3 ch, sc in next ch; repeat from * across, turn—28 (32, 36, 42, 50, 54) shells.
Row 2: Ch 7 (counts as tr, ch 3), *skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch-5 space, ch 3; repeat from * to last shell, skip next 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 3, tr in last sc, turn.
Round 3 (edging): Ch 1, work 4 hdc in each ch-3 space and 3 hdc in each ch-2 space to last ch-3 space, 3 hdc in last ch-3 space, hdc in 4th ch of turning ch; ch 3, sc in hdc just made; pivot to work along side edge, 4 hdc in turning-ch space in side of Row 2, hdc in side of Row 1, ch 3, sc in hdc just made; pivot to work along opposite side of foundation ch, hdc in first ch, 3 hdc in first ch-3 space, 4 hdc in each ch-3 space and 3 hdc in each ch-2 space to last ch-3 space of foundation ch, 3 hdc in last ch-3 space, hdc in last ch, ch 3, sc in hdc just made; pivot to work along side edge, hdc in side of Row 1, 4 hdc around tr in side of Row 2, ch 3, sc in hdc just made; join with slip st in first hdc. Fasten off.

FINISHING
Choose RS of back and front bodice. Select sides that go well with the striping of the RS of the peplum (RS of peplum has vertical rev sc ridges on sides). Sew shoulder seams.
With WS of front bodice facing and larger hook, join yarn in lower corner of bodice.
Row 1: Ch 2, working in ends of rows, hdc in end of each row across. Fasten off.
Edge Tabard Side (left hand side)
With WS facing, join A with slip st in lower left corner of back
Row 1 (WS): Ch 2, [2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts] 3 times, hdc in each remaining st across entire side edge of tabard, skipping shoulder seam, to lower left corner of front bodice, do not turn.
Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, rev sc across working the rev sc in the third horizontal loop found on the back of each hdc to create a raised ridge on the RS of the garment; do not turn.
Row 3 (WS): Working in sts of Row 1, ch 2, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in each remaining ch across, do not turn.
Row 4 (WS): Repeat Row 2. Fasten off.
Edge Tabard Side (right hand side)
With WS facing, join A with slip st in lower right corner of front bodice.
Row 1 (WS): Ch 2, hdc in each st across entire side edge of tabard, skipping shoulder seam, to last 10 sts, [2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts] 3 times, 2 hdc in last st, do not turn.
Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, rev sc across working the rev sc in the third horizontal loop found on the back of each hdc to create a raised ridge on the RS of the garment; do not turn.
Row 3 (WS): Working in sts of Row 1, ch 2, hdc in each st to last 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in last st, do not turn.
Row 4 (WS): Repeat Row 2. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming to armhole.
Seam Waistband
With RS of front bodice facing and smaller hook, join C with slip st in lower corner of bodice.
Row 1: Working in ends of rows across lower edge of bodice, slip st in the third horizontal loop found on the back of each hdc across, do not turn.
Row 2: Center front bodice over RS of top edge of waistband, aligning sts; ch 1, inserting hook into one loop of each slip st of Row 1 and in third horizontal loop found on back of corresponding hdc of waistband, work rev sc across. Fasten off.
Seam other edge of waist band to peplum in same manner.
Seam Armhole
Locate join at end of first round of sleeve, place marker in join. Flatten sleeve to locate stitch directly opposite of join and place another marker. Count the stitches between the markers (there may be an additional stitch on one-half of sleeve than on the other). Beginning at shoulder seam, count down the front bodice the number of sts of one side of sleeve and place marker. Beginning at shoulder seam, count down the back the number of sts of other side of sleeve and place marker. With RS facing and smaller hook, join C with slip st in armhole at marker.
Row 1: Ch 1, slip st in each st around armhole (between markers), do not turn.
Row 2: Align join marker of sleeve with armhole markers, and opposite marker of sleeve with shoulder seam; ch 1, inserting hook into back loop of each slip st of Row 1, nearby loop of armhole st holding the slip st,  and back loop of corresponding st of sleeve, work rev sc across. Fasten off.
Seam sides of bodice and back from armhole to waistband.
Neck Trim
With RS facing and larger hook, join A with slip st in back neck.
Round 1: Ch 1, *sc evenly spaced to 2 sts before lower front corner, hdc in next st, dc2tog over next st and st following corner st, hdc in next st; repeat from * one more time, sc evenly spaced around; join with slip in first sc. Fasten off.
Round 2: With RS facing, join C with slip st in back neck. ch 1, working in back loops only, slip st in each st around, skipping 1 st in each front corner; join with slip st in first st, do not turn.
Round 3: Ch 1, working in back loops only, rev sc in each slip st around; join with slip st in first st. Fasten off.
Using yarn needle, weave in all ends. Briefly steam-blocking sleeves will lengthen them and flatten picots slightly, if desired. Steam-blocking the rest of this garment is not recommended.



Happy Valentines



The true History of Valentines Day
by Mani Niall

5th Century, Rome Mid February was traditionally the time of the Lupercian festival, an ode to the God of fertility and a celebration of sensual pleasure, a time to meet and court a prospective mate. In AD 496, Pope Gelasius outlawed the pagan festival. But he was clever to replace it with a similar celebration, although one deemed morally suitable. He needed a "lovers" saint to replace the pagan deity Lupercus.    The martyred Bishop Valentine was chosen as the patron saint of the new festival. Saint Valentine had been beheaded for helping young lovers marry against the wishes of the mad emperor Claudius. Before execution, Valentine himself had fallen in love with his jailer's daughter. He signed his final note to her, "From Your Valentine", a phrase that has lasted through the centuries.    Pope Gelasius didn't get everything he wanted. The pagan festival died out, it is true, but he had further hoped people would emulate the lives of saints. Instead they latched onto the more romantic aspect of Saint Valentines religious life. While not immediately as popular as the more passionate pagan festival, eventually the concept of celebrating true love became known as Valentine's Day. We know this can't be healthy, oh who cares ? It's Valentines Day, Enjoy  Y'all <3 Red Velvet Cheesecake Brownies Recipe can be found HERE  How to Make a Heart directions can be found HERE it's a fantastic  idea no need for heart shaped pans for this one.



All about Papaya

I absolutly love Papaya
and every thing about it , how it grows ,the color,
the tecture, the taste and the fact that
it is so good for you.

Photo is from Pine Island Nuresry

they are a great site to visit for all kinds of great fruits

All about Papaya
Growing Papaya
Growing papaya from seed is the easiest and most successful way to get started.
 And of course it's also the cheapest. You can grow papayas using seed from shop bought papayas.

Instuction for growing can be found HERE

Papaya - A Powerhouse of Nutrients!

 papaya is rich in antioxidents, carotene, vitamin A, vitamin B, vitamin C, potassium, magnesium, pantothenic acid, folate and fiber. All these nutrients are essential for the smooth functioning of various systems of your body. The vitamins and minerals present in papaya act as great boosters for metabolism. Since its regular intake accelerates the rate of metabolism, your body utilizes fat deposits fast to generate energy. In the process, loss of fat cells imparts you a leaner and more toned body.

Benefits of papaya latex

Sap papaya contains papain enzymes. According to a study published in The Journal of the Society of Biology, papain enzymes are anti-tumor and anticancer. In these enzymes there karpain compounds, which are known potent inhibiting several microorganisms that work interfere with digestive functions and effectively suppress the cause of typhoid fever.

NOW THAT'S A GOOD THING

Papaya is called fruit of the angels by Conquistadors because of its heavenly taste.

 In its prime, it is a cerise-orange colored, unbelievably juicy fruit with an aroma to match

 its heavenly taste. Not only is papaya beautiful,

fragrant and luscious, it is amazingly healthful!

More on Why and How

to eat this wonderful fruit can be found HERE  HERE and HERE

This post is a work in progress , more to come concerning papaya.

So,,, for the crafts

Juice can stool

My grandma made one just like this when I was little

it was in different fabric of course but other wise it is

the same pattern, mine will be in a green fabric. I am really glad to

have stubbled upon this pattern HERE at a site called

Sweet Things

Crochet

More Crochet

Have a Heart Shawl

Pattern HERE

Shimmer Cowl

Pattern can be found HERE

Graceful Shell Shawl

Pattern can be found HERE

Belle Fleur Scarf

Pattern HERE

Sidewalk Shawl

Pattern HERE

The Wrap

Pattern HERE

Sons and Daughters

Joshua James < Green Grass > and SUPER PEANUT PUMPKIN MUFFINS,, to, oh my :)

It's been a real lazy Sunday for the most part. Chating with family and friends on face book. Crocheting on a cowl for my daughter, ( picture below ) it's almost done. Cleaning out my crafting closet with all my beads for making my Native American Craft's. Talking on the phone with my sisiter who lives in Colorado. Listening to my music on youtube ( my most favorite thing to do ) What a bum I am, but all in all a relaxing day.
I found some good music to share and a really yummy recipe. Of course at the bottom I will have some crafts I am working on.

Enjoy, James is really very  talented.

From Joshua James

Willamette Mountian

good place for some Veggie recipes

he's a great musician and not a bad cook :)

Find Joshua at some of the links below

 He ia every where on Youtube :)

Joshua James on Myspace for his music

Joshua James TV

Joshua James On Twitter

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I found  his Muffin recipe Here

SUPER PEANUT PUMPKIN MUFFINS:
INGREDIENTS:

• 1 1/2 cups Flour (I used 1/2 wheat, 1/2 white flour)
• 2 tsp baking powder
• 1/4 tsp salt
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 2 bananas (quite ripe if possible, if not NO WORRIES), mashed.
• 1/3 cup flaxseed meal
• 3/4 cup sugar
• 1/2 cup peanut butter
• 1/2 cup milk (non-dairy if you can)
• 3/4 cup pumpkin puree
• 1/4 cup of your FAV mixin (i.e. carob chips, sliced almonds, raisins, i used chopped walnuts for this)

DIRECTIONS

1. Preheat oven to 350, lightly coat a muffin tin with cooking spray
2. Whisk flour, baking powder, salt in a medium bowl
3. Combine Vanilla, bananas, flaxmeal, sugar, peanut butter, milk, and pumpkin
4. Fold dry ingredients into wet, don’t OVERMIX!
5. Stir in add-in of choice (WALNUTS!)
6. Divide batter into prepared pan. Bake for 25-30 minutes, or until center of muffin is done.
7. Cool on cooling rack
8. BE A HERO.

One more recipe this one is from Tea and Scones.

I can look at this one, but dare not eat YUM

you can find her recipe Here





The Cowl I'm Working on almost done. Mines in brown.

I am going to make this one next, all for my Kimber :)